Panjim old Town

The old town area of Sao Tome, name just like the island in the Nigerian delta, translated means "St. Thomas", is reminicent of a bygone era, one with splendid balconies and inner courtyards, horse drawn carriages and palatial mansions....so was Panjim, maybe 450 years ago, when the Portuguese ruled the roost. The state of decline has crept up on this capital albeit slowly, but it's inner beauty cannot be hidden for very long.

Prawn salesmen honk their horns at first light delivering fresh fish caught in the local Mandovi river, wheeled around in a basket on top of an old push bike, local Konkani people collect their fresh fruit from the central market and take it to various corners in turn to sell it on to passers by.

Nuns parade in immaculately white shawls.Good Friday masses are held outside the church because of the cool dry air and the procession of the cross takes place late in the evening so it doesn't cause traffic jams but mainly because the air is cooler.Faith and christianity are everywhere in this tiny quarter.Just as the hindus burn incense to their gods, the local Catholic faith have earmarked parts of their property for the same type of daily sacrifice, the scarred blackened walls and garlands of flowers around marble crosses act as testimony.Each home has a crucifix molded to its wall, depicting whether or not they are religious.

We've been here 2 weeks and don't want to leave for the sea, sand and beachlife as this cannot be replicated. Old men wonder the dust filled streets in search of the 'mutgar' or gambling man so they can wager a bet on the numbers. He is usually to be found in the many tiny pubs that are in such a decreipt state of disrepair, that they're more eyesores than drinking dens, but as bad as they may seem, they are heaving with locals inside, all men, all not working and all drinking the local brew of fermented cashew nuts known as 'fenni'.

While everyone watches each other..from balconies, barndoors that cut in two in the middle, and from stoops, most wonder what life has brought them but they continue their daily rituals regardless.